Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

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eldelcairo
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Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor eldelcairo » 11 Jun 2015 09:01

Buenos dias.

Ya lo tengo descuartizado, placa versión F² y TOS 1.04 alemana de dos integrados de 28 pins.

Imagen

Imagen

Imagen

Este tipo de placa parece costosa de ampliar?

Habia pensado en ampliarlo con el adaptador SIMM de esta web o conoceis alguna alternativa mejor.

http://www.exxoshost.co.uk/atari/last/store.htm

Del TOS ando muy verde, que integrados debería conseguir para flashearle la 2.06 eng o la 1.04 en castellano?

Un saludo.
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eldelcairo
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor eldelcairo » 11 Jun 2015 09:07

El sistema TOS 1.04 Germany

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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor groovydrifter » 11 Jun 2015 09:44

El TOS 2.06 no se lo vas a poder poner "a pelo", ya que el tamaño que este ordenador reserva para el TOS es menor que lo que ocupa la version 2.06. Para poder poner ese TOS hay que usar un rango de direcciones diferente que disponen del espacio suficiente sin asignar. El problema es que el chipset substituye las direcciones de ram de la 0 a la 7 (las 8 primeras del mapa de RAM) con las 8 primeras del TOS porque el procesador va a buscar ahí los vectores de reset, etc... (para saber donde ha de ir al resetaearlo, etc...). Tienes instrucciones para hacerlo (en ingles) aqui: http://atari4ever.free.fr/hardware/tos.html

Respecto a la RAM, efectivamente ese adaptador es el metodo más limpio, pero no carente de riesgo y muy laborioso. Aunque si te quieres dar "caña" siempre puedes intentar la misma ampliación pero "a pelo" (que seguramente es lo que yo haga en una placa que he pillado para trastear) siguiendo estas instrucciones:

Atari ST 72-pin SIMM 4Mb Memory Upgrade - July 25th 2005 - v1.03
----------------------------------------------------------------

0. Introduction
1. The signal lines
2. 16pin 41256 DRAM pinouts
3. 72pin 4Mb SIMM pinouts
4. Building a test-bed to identify good SIMMS
5. Preparing the Atari ST for connection to your SIMM
6. Connecting your SIMM socket to the STs motherboard.
7. Hardwiring a chosen SIMM to the motherboard
8. Hints and Tips
9. Adding a toggle switch for 4Mb or 1Mb operation
10. RAM testing programs
11. Final note
12. More notes
13. Some images at a web address
14. Static precautions
15. Credits


0. Introduction
---------------
These procedures are written to roughly describe the procedure of upgrading the memory of the Atari 520ST or 1040ST to 4Mb. This is achieved by utilising a single 72-pin SIMM memory stick and wiring it in to replace the existing ram. All connections are made directly to the ram banks. There is some soldering involved, well, theres actually quite alot of very delicate soldering involved, especially on the SIMM. If your machine has 16 or 32 RAM chips then this is for you. The procedures are also suitable for other machines if you put your mind to it.

As a disclaimer (were seeing alot more these days arent we!) it has to be said that youre on your own. If you blow up your computer or electrocute the cat when it sits on the open power supply, then dont say you werent warned of what could happen. Use your common sense. If the steps are too steep then look where youre going. This procedure does work and has been used numerous times before releasing here in written form with our names on the bottom. Best of luck.


1. The signal lines
-------------------
There are three main groups of signal lines. D0 thru D15 refer to what would be the individual chip selection lines, if there are 16 chips as there are in the Atari ST, then there are 16 individual chip select lines. A0 thru A8 are the address lines, by looking at how many of these you can determine how much RAM the machine can physically address. In the standard ST configuration a maximum of 512K can be utilised from 16 chips, or 1024k if 32 are used. If now the A9 address line is enabled (as it will be later) then we can address 4Mbytes.

The other lines are the row and column strobes, RAS, CAS etc. Memory by its design loses the information it contains after a short while, these signals are used to refresh these values periodically, this is all done automatically by the memory controller. Remember the various settings in an IBM PC compatibles BIOS for setting these? RAS/CAS delay etc.

Finally the last group are straightforward. GND and +5v provide power to the memory. The WE signal line tells the chips if they should be receiving or sending data, WE is sort of on its own as far as signals go, its not a D or A line, and its not a RAS/CAS select line. If it had to be grouped then it could be put with the RAS/CAS lines although it is quite different.


2. 16pin 41256 DRAM pinouts
---------------------------
The pinouts for the chips used in the ST are as follows. Note, some STs have 8 1Mbit chips and these revisions are not discussed here.
------_/------
A8 |1 16| GND
D |2 15| CAS
WE |3 14| Q
RAS |4 13| A6
A0 |5 12| A3
A2 |6 11| A4
A1 |7 10| A5
Vcc |8 9| A7
---------------


3. 72pin 4Mb SIMM pinouts
-------------------------
These are the pinouts for a standard 4Mb 72pin SIMM. On a 1Mbyte SIMM the A9 line is N/C, and on an 8Mbyte SIMM A10 is now present. The sticks that we are interested in have a minimum of A0 thru A9 enabled.
SIMM Description
1 GND
2+3 D0 + D16
4+5 D1 + D17
6+7 D2 + D18
8+9 D3 + D19
10 +5v
12 A0
13 A1
14 A2
15 A3
16 A4
17 A5
18 A6
20+21 D4 + D20
22+23 D5 + D21
24+25 D6 + D22
26+27 D7 + D23
28 A7
30 +5v
31 A8
32 A9
34 RAS1
39 GND
40 CAS0L
41 CAS1L
42 CAS1H
43 CAS0H
44 RAS0
47 WE
49+50 D8 + D24
51+52 D9 + D25
53+54 D10 + D26
55+56 D11 + D27
57+58 D12 + D28
59 +5v
60+61 D13 + D29
62+63 D14 + D30
64+65 D15 + D31
72 GND
==========================
*40 connections to be made
==========================

a. A0 thru A9 are the address lines
b. D0 thru D32 are the data/chip lines
c. CAS0L thru CAS1H are the column select lines
d. RAS0 and RAS1 are the row select lines
e. WE is the Write Enable line
f. GND and +5v are the power supply for the SIMM board


4. Building a test-bed to identify good SIMMS
-----------------------------------------------
It may be an idea to test your SIMMs in a socket first. This is discussed in the following paragraphs.

Probably one of the most important aspects here is to have SIMM memory which is actually suitable for the job. SIMMS generally come in two flavours, EDO and FP. EDO ram is optimised to allow faster access times and is unsuitable for the Atari ST. FP or Fast Page ram is required, and as a percentage, EDO ram is more available than FP ram to about 75%, or, a ratio of 3:1. Thus, you will need to build a test bed first to test your SIMMS prior to any permanent fitting.

A 72-pin SIMM socket is required, these are commonly found on 486 and some early Pentium motherboards. The method for removing these is to take a butane blow torch to the back of the board and carefully remove the socket, this totally destroys the donor motherboard so you may as well remove all of the sockets, likely 4 off.

Having removed your now slightly charred sockets, wires now need to be soldered to the very small solder pins on the back. Recommended materials are suggested;
a. Heat-shrink to seal the connections afterwards
b. 10 6inch lengths of solid core wire for address lines
c. 16 6inch lengths of solid core wire for data/chip lines
d. 32 1inch lengths of SCW for data/chip lines
d. 3 6inch lengths of SCW for ground lines
e. 3 6inch lengths of SCW for +5v lines
f. 6 6inch lengths of SCW for row/column select lines
g. 1 6inch length of SCW for WE line

It is suggested that your data/chip lines be hooked up first. There are 16 connections to be made to the ST board, coming from 32 connections on the SIMM. So.. solder your 32 1inch lengths to the data lines on the SIMM socket, afterwards heat shrink these where they connect, about 5mm of heat shrink each. It is further suggested to strip these wires to about 3mm before you begin. Next, the 32 bits of wire you have poking out from the socket need to be paired up and soldered to your 16 6inch lengths. These connections will also need to be heatshrinked. Thats the data lines done!! Expected time to do this is about 1-2 hours.

All of the other lines to be connected to the SIMM socket are made singlely so is quite straight forward here after. All should be individually heat shrinked where the connection is made on the back of the socket also.


5. Preparing the Atari ST for connection to your SIMM
-----------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately you cannot just make the connections to the various points on the STs existing DRAM banks as the existing dram will interfere with the signals. There are a number of ways to deal with this;

a. Remove ALL of the dram chips from the STs motherboard.
b. Disable power and RAS/CAS signals to the dram chips, leaving them in place

Performing (a) is probably the best course of action. Salvaging the existing chips will be difficult however, as potentially expensive and damaging methods are required to get those chips off of the board in one piece. The method here was to use a hobby drill with a cutting disc fitted and to cut the legs off of every chip, finally removing the remaining stumps from the motherboard.

Performing (b) has the advantage that your dram chips are preserved should you ever wish to downgrade and its less stressful. Disabling power to the chips can be achieved by lifting the inductor L51 just next to the main power connector to the motherboard. This procedure is not however guaranteed as many revisions of the ST motherboard existed. On my test motherboard the power area where L51 forms a circuit also powers the floppy disk drive. Power for the FDD can of course be taken from elsewhere on the board as there may be additional solder points, there are some here directly infront of the main power supply connector. It is only the +5v line which is affected for the FDD, which is the red wire. The existing dram signals that you must disable are RAS0, CAS0L, CAS1L; Thats the main bank in 520STFM models. On 1040STFM models or 520STs with 1Mbyte upgrades, RAS1, CAS1L and CAS1H must also be disabled. This is achieved by lifting the 66ohm resistors R59, R60 and R61 for bank0, and R71, R72, R73 for bank1. If you do not do this then you will be looking at a blank screen when you power-up. It is also debatable as to whether the +5v actually needs to be disabled to the RAM banks, but since the STs PSU is generally quite small, it makes good practice either way.

Please note again that as there are many revisions of the ST board, such that procedure (a) can only be suggested as solid guidance. In an ideal world I would always choose (a) since you simply do not know how those existing dram chips will interfere with the other signal lines.

The next stage is to bring out the A9 signal line. You have to make a connection directly to pin64 of the MMU chip to bring this line out for use. Suggested procedure for this is to drill a hole through the ST motherboard and to place a PCB pin to the upper side which connects to the pin64 solder joint on the underside of the board. The tricky bit there is finding somewhere for your hole on the ST motherboard where no tracks are running. Space is tight, VERY tight. The PCB pin here was placed just behind the main power supply connector with barely 1mm spare around it, and a wire taken between the two points on the underside. Theres also another space just infront of the bank of resistors. You can identify pin64 with a multimeter, pin61 is labelled topside. (if you dont know how to do this then you shouldnt even be doing it!) Having brought out A9, a 33ohm resistor will required in series to A9 on the SIMM. This can be soldered straight to the PCB pin.


6. Connecting your SIMM socket to the STs motherboard.
------------------------------------------------------
a. Make the D0 thru D15 connections first, these connect to one of either of the 2 dram banks. D0 for example will connect to the space for dram chip U47 at pin 2. D1 to U42 at pin 2. Heres a list;
U47/pin2 > D0
U42/pin2 > D1
U37/pin2 > D2
U30/pin2 > D3
U25/pin2 > D4
U21/pin2 > D5
U13/pin2 > D6
U6/pin2 > D7

U46/pin2 > D8
U41/pin2 > D9
U36/pin2 > D10
U29/pin2 > D11
U24/pin2 > D12
U20/pin2 > D13
U12/pin2 > D14
U5/pin2 > D15

b. Now make the A0 thru A9 connections. It is suggested that these are made directly to the resistor bank below the dram banks and above the MMU. The resistors in this bank do the following;
R59 > RAS0
R60 > CAS0L
R61 > CAS1L
R62 > A8
R63 > A7
R64 > A6
R65 > A0
R66 > A1
R67 > A2
R68 > A3
R69 > A4
R70 > A5
R71 > CAS1H
R72 > CAS1L
R73 > RAS1
MMU64 > A9

c. The row and column address signals are made as per the information table supplied in (b) above. It is probably easier to make these connections directly to the resistors rather than to the dram sockets if empty. If your RAM does remain then you need to lift up the RAS/CAS buffer resistors to separate the signals from the existing RAM.

d. WE (Write Enable) has to be connected to pin3 of any of the vacant dram spaces where the dram would be located. If youre leaving the existing dram in then just solder to pin3 of any of the chips.

e. The SIMMs power is supplied from the motherboard. There are 2 methods here to get power. If you have removed all of your dram chips and L51 is still in place then you may take power from the dram sockets, pin8 is +5v and pin16 is GND. More than one take off is recommended to source sufficiant power for the SIMM.

If your existing dram remains and you have lifted up L51 then you need to find power from somewhere else other than the dram area. The pin16/GNDs will still be connected at the dram sockets although your +5v will need to be taken straight from L51. L51 seems the obvious choice although I am concerned about sufficient smoothing being lost as the capacitors within the dram banks are no longer part of the circuit. To be revised, this procedure is to be tested on my next memory upgrade.

REVISION: 1040ST system with both banks fitted and disabled seems to be functioning well. +5v for the SIMM is taken from the lifted L51. The +5v for the FDD is routed from the empty FDD pad bank located in front of the main PSU connector, the +5v/RED wire has been extended to accommodate. The RAS/CAS resistors have been lifted and laid back down onto insulating tape beneath them.


7. Hardwiring a chosen SIMM to the motherboard
----------------------------------------------
At your discression. A hardwired SIMM does fit nicely on top of the first bank though. Is also an idea to have the wires running across the back of the SIMM board rather than simply away from it, as they can be taped down to the board to provide strength.


8. Hints and Tips
-----------------
The motherboard that has just been worked on with the 2 banks of ram remaining had had its 2nd bank bodge fitted by a previous owner (eBay purchase). Tracks on this motherboard were damaged and the standard of soldering was lumpy, it is surprising that the SIMM upgrade did not upset things so the dram was chosen to be left in place with the minimum of upset. The first piece of advice follows;
*Take pride and time in your work
*Plan out each job separately
*Aim to take 2-3days on-and-off to complete this upgrade
*Before even starting, get some magnifying goggles
*Prepare your test SIMM socket first, test for shorts with a multimeter
*Fit your A9 pin as a separate job, use a small manual hand drill and not your Dads hammer action drill
*Grinding off your ram is a separate job, and dont go through any tracks!!
*Removing the ram stumps is a separate job
*Bringing up L51, R59, R60, R61, R71, R72, R73 is only just a separate job, tea time!!

Having the right tools is another requirement for this job;
*18w soldering iron with a brand new small tip
*Magnifying goggles (already mentioned)
*Multimeter with diode test facility (or resistance) for shorts
*Long nose tweezers
*Long nose pliers
*Professional jaw wire cutters, expect to spend £10
*Dentists tools, picks etc. (also sold as soldering tools)
*Helping hands (those things with croc clips for holding things)
*Insulating tape
*Sharp scissors

Thats some of the tips I can think of anyway. Oh, one last tip for the wire cutters. Youll notice that stripping wire connected to a delicate board isnt too practical. Grasp your wire with the cutters, and then using the long nosed pliers hold the wire again just behind the jaws of the cutters, then simply lever the cutters against the pliers. This enables the wire to be stripped without bending things and jolting everything.

When you start to test your SIMMS to identify a Fast Page version, it may be difficult to determine if your first SIMM is an EDO or if you have a genuine wiring error. Trust me, I know the anticipation when you switch on for the first time. The effect of inserting an EDO SIMM is that the screen will be corrupted with lots of coloured flecks pulsing across the screen, and, the computer will likely attempt to boot. It may even make it to the desktop, just with coloured flecks all over the place, or it may bomb out. If you have made a wiring error then it is likely that the screen may be blank, or it may be the case that the screen is filled with solid coloured blocks. Just try another SIMM to see if it behaves the same way, in testing it was found that different brands of EDO SIMMs behaved just slightly differently, a very rare few may even work, its not known why but two were found here. It is imagined that you will have a box of 20-odd assorted SIMMs to test. If you have sourced two SIMMs from eBay then the chances are that these will be EDO sticks.

Before you switch on for the first time, do check for shorts and wiring errors. It only takes 10 minutes to thoroughly check over for problems.


9. Adding a toggle switch for 4Mb or 1Mb operation
--------------------------------------------------
There are bugs! Surprised? No, didnt think you were. Some ST programs, namely games, will not function on a 4Mb machine. This is caused as some misbehaving programs will attempt to address past the 4Mb ceiling, dont ask me why they do this. Anyway, on a 520ST or 1040ST this doesnt cause a great problem as the STs BIOS simply returns a software-error, its trapped by the program, and everything carries on running. On a 4Mb machine however, addressing past the 4Mb ceiling creates a hardware-error, which isnt trapped, and the system crashes. End of story.

When writing these procedures it was decided to try to turn our 4Mb machine back into a 1Mb machine at the flick of a switch. Interested?

A 2-pole switch was fitted at the back of the machine through the case, in the area between the PSU and FDD shielding. The A9 signal which runs from the SIMM is common (in the middle), with GND and the MMU A9 signal being selectable. In one position the SIMMs A9 is connected to the MMUs A9 as per this document. In the other position, the SIMMs A9 is grounded. Its as simple as that! Connecting the SIMMs A9 signal to ground turns our machine into a 1040ST. It is ok to leave the MMUs A9 floating, as it has been for years since it left the factory.

If you should be tempted to try switching while the machine is switched on, it doesnt work, obviously. By all means, switch between 4Mb and 1Mb with the machine powered although I dont know if this could destroy the SIMM or MMU. What has been tried here is to switch over and then perform a reset, which seems to work ok aside from the screen corruption. On your head be it!


10. RAM testing programs
------------------------
Having completed this RAM upgrade and with a gleaming desktop you of course want to thoroughly test everything. Two pieces of software have been identified as being suitable.

Peter Knoppers, a hardened techie from Holland, has kindly allowed us to link to his ramtest program found here; http://ce.et.tudelft.nl/~knop/#memorytest . The one thing to mention about his software is that you have to output to either a parallel printer connected to the ST, alternatively, you can output via the serial port, connecting this to a PC running HyperTerminal with a NULL modem cable. His software is VERY configurable, so if you have a NULL modem cable then hes well worth a look. I quite like the software as it leaves you with a status log should your ST die or something.

Chris Swinson, of CPS electronics in the UK has suggested the MARPET test program now found here; http://www.cps-electronics.co.uk/144/ramtest.zip . As far as permission to use the program goes, unsuccessful attempts have been made to contact Marpet thus the package has been deemed abandonware. Unless anyone knows otherwise that is. Its an ok program mind in that it outputs directly to the STs screen, although in comparison to Peters offering, it doesnt appear to be so intuitive or thorough, guess that makes it easy to use! Im not sure if it relocates itself at each run, but of course if you just want output to the screen and to leave the computer testing then its all thumbs up.

The final method of testing your RAM, as suggested by Chris again, is to create a whopping 3.5Mbyte RAM disk. Create a totally black .BMP image file on your PC, and port it back and forth using the PARCP transfer program. If any errors occur then you will be able to easily identify problems from colours creeping into your bitmap file when viewed again on the PC.


11. Final note
--------------
Where you position your final SIMM is up to you. The guidelines provided here are simply to show that it can be done, and roughly how you might do it and to get you started. You could use your socket or you could hard wire. As for where you end up and how you do it, thats all part of the fun and job well done.


12. More notes
--------------
To aid completeness it was thought an idea to provide web links to some of the tools and equipment used. Most of this is sourced from Maplin Electronics in the UK who are the equivalent of the Tandy/Radio Shack shops in the USA.

Wire Cutters:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 9&doy=20m7

1mm Drills:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 0&doy=20m7

PCB Pins:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 0&doy=20m7

Helping Hands: (buy these from bargain £1 stores!!)
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 7&doy=20m7

Wire Brushes: (buy these from bargain £1 stores!!)
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 5&doy=20m7

Heat Shrink:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 1&doy=20m7

Solid Core Wire:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 7&doy=20m7

2 Pole Switch:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 1&doy=20m7

Dentists Tools:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 9&doy=20m7

Desoldering Pump:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 4&doy=20m7

Desoldering Braid:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Mod ... 6&doy=20m7


13. Some images at a web address
--------------------------------
http://www.retro.dial.pipex.com/stram/


14. Static precautions
----------------------
We hear more and more about static, almost as often as legal disclaimers. The reality is that static is not always an issue. If you live in a dry non-humid heated climate then yes it certainly is, weve all seen the little blue sparks and heard the crackling on clothes. If however you live in the UK, where it rains constantly then it may not be so much of an issue. Im saying this here as Ive just seen one of the progress photos with SIMM sticks laying all over the carpet. Some environments generate static, others dont. It is however always a risk but the feeling that it is constantly necessary to hook yourself up to the GNDs of the National Electricity Grid is a trifle excessive. Once again, just use your common sense of what you know about the environment around you, touch a grounded device occasionally. Oh by the way, the STs motherboard was always sitting on a newspaper in those photos.


15. Credits
-----------
Alison Challis (techie_alison) of Cambridge UK - Author and tester of these procedures

Chris Swinson (Exxos) of somewhere in the UK - original developer of these procedures many years ago, his website is here; http://cps-electronics.co.uk . Chris has been my mentor here and has provided lots and lots of patience.

Peter Knoppers of Holland - kindly allowed permission to use his ramtest program. It can be found here; http://ce.et.tudelft.nl/~knop/#memorytest .

Christopher Hicks of Cambridge UK - his 30-pin SIMM/SIPP hack helped immensely. It can be seen here; http://atari4ever.free.fr/hardware/ram.html .

Geir Øyvind Vælidalo of somewhere - his Atari Stacy 4Mb upgrade helped immensely. It can be seen here; http://atari.nvg.org/stacyram/ .

Kurt Sharp also gets a mention as hes been viewing the pictures of my upgrades with bundles of wire going everywhere and saying Ooh Ahh. Most encouraging. Kurt is in the process of developing a RAM test program so hopefully this will enter the public domain in months to come.





Alison Challis techie_alisonATyahoo.co.uk
July 2005
-flirt Shut up and deal... (The Apartment, Billy Wilder, 1960)

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eldelcairo
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor eldelcairo » 11 Jun 2015 10:18

Jodó GroovyDrifter, vaya peazo aporte, la enciclopedia catalana se queda corta al lado de esto.

Mi nivel es bajo, pero me pondré a leerlo de cabo a rabo, con un poco de Google Traductor, a ver que saco en claro de todo esto.

Entiendo que los integrados los consigo extrayendolos de una SIMM...

Y sobre el TOS, quizás la opción de 1.04 spanish sea la más acertada vista la complejidad de la 2.06. Un amigo tiene un flasheador de eproms. Tenemos pendiente hacerlo con unos 27c800 para Kickstart del Amiga 600, cual se necesita para el STfm?
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor eldelcairo » 11 Jun 2015 10:26

Encontré ésto en la "bahia maldita" XD

Imagen

No se qual debería adquirir.
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor groovydrifter » 11 Jun 2015 10:30

Esa tabla es para el STe ;-)
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor groovydrifter » 11 Jun 2015 11:32

eldelcairo escribió:Jodó GroovyDrifter, vaya peazo aporte, la enciclopedia catalana se queda corta al lado de esto.

Mi nivel es bajo, pero me pondré a leerlo de cabo a rabo, con un poco de Google Traductor, a ver que saco en claro de todo esto.

Entiendo que los integrados los consigo extrayendolos de una SIMM...

Y sobre el TOS, quizás la opción de 1.04 spanish sea la más acertada vista la complejidad de la 2.06. Un amigo tiene un flasheador de eproms. Tenemos pendiente hacerlo con unos 27c800 para Kickstart del Amiga 600, cual se necesita para el STfm?


En este caso no, lo que usas es un simm de 72 pines de tipo fast-page enterita. El autor recomienda que uses un zócalo SIMM por si la que pones no lo es (raro pero posible, o puede ser EDO que no serviría). La placa del ingles lo que evita es el conexionado de todos los hilos a los pads, el currazo de desoldar 32 integrados con sus condensadores no te los quita nadie.

Para poner el 1.04 (el idioma que quieras poner) con 2 chips es un poco mas complicado que con 6, porque las ROM 128k x 8 son de 28pin y todas las EPROM de la misma capacidad son de 32pin... y para terminar de dorarlo no todos los pines coinciden en la parte que es comun a ambas. El adaptador necesario no lo he dibujado, pero creo que tengo por casa los pineados de ambas cosas. La opción de 6 integrados pasa por cambiar tres puentes de soldadura y soldar los zócalos que faltan. Previamente con un programa de Atari llamado Romsplit habremos generado los ficheros que van en cada integrado, que será lo que grabemos. En el caso de usar seis integrados usamos 27256 o 27c256 o cualquier integrado programable con el mismo pineado (eprom, eeprom, flash, etc) y los pinchamos en los zocalos correspondientes a su posicion. Romsplit nombra cada fichero que genera de tal modo que no es posible equivocarse.

Para la opcion de usar dos eprom de 128k x 8bit ya digo que no tengo el adaptador claro, pero las eprom mas comunes son la 27c010 o la 27c1001, que ademas coinciden en el pineado.
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor eldelcairo » 11 Jun 2015 11:40

GroovyDrifter escribió:Esa tabla es para el STe ;-)

Perdona, no había actualizado
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor groovydrifter » 11 Jun 2015 11:53

Acabo de andar mirando por el Zip del primer tutorial (el de poner 2.06 en todos los ST) y en el fichero de texto que contiene viene como hacer el adaptador de 32 a 28 pines, o mas bien como enchufar una 27c010 en un zócalo pensado para una rom de 128k x 8 bit y 28 pines. Es necesario en el caso de poner ese TOS porque ocupa 256KB en vez de 192KB, pero hay un detalle que no recuerdo que hay que tener en cuenta al grabar las eproms si metes un TOS de 192k en dos rom de 128KB, y tiene que ver con lo que se debe rellenar el espacio sobrante. No recuerdo si el aviso era que no se rellenase con ceros o si era que no se rellenase con unos (que seria lo normal). Mi mala memoria me insinua que no se debe rellenar con ceros, pero no me atrevo a asegurarlo.
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor DyLucke » 11 Jun 2015 12:50

La página que has aportado, Eldelcairo me parece sumamente útil.
También tengo un STf que ampliar. No se si me decidiré por la ampli que lleva la faja vendida en la página u optaré por el método manual de GroovyDrifter.

Un hilo muy interesante, sí señor.

Por cierto, GroovyDrifter, el otro día comentabas de poner un conmutador a tu STf para poder habilitar o deshabilitar los 4mb a voluntad por temas de incompatibilidad con cierto software.
Parece que existen alternativas por soft para realizar este proceso. O al menos eso se indica en la página esta.
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor groovydrifter » 11 Jun 2015 13:08

cierto, cierto, creo que son unos programitas de Pera Putnik que "capan" la ram ¿no?. Pero bueno, la solucion por hardware es tan sencilla... que no se si merece la pena. A la linea A9 de la MMU que añadimos para pasar de 1M a 4M, le ponemos un pullup o un pulldown debil (para que ese bit del multiplex de la ram no se quede flotando y tome valores aleatrorios) y la pasamos por un interruptor y con un gesto (ordenador apagado o imperativo reiniciarlo despues) cambiamos el tamaño de la ram.
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor ron » 11 Jun 2015 19:34

Hoy en día ya que se puede fácilmente, lo suyo es tener el ST con TOS 2.06 UK, 4 MB de RAM, cable color y cable VGA Mono. Eso es todo.
No solamente lo recomiendo sino que si alguien quiere tener un ST para su uso y disfrute es una configuración que va muy bien y funciona prácticamente todo.

Además con tanta RAM se puede volcar la ROM que se quiera a RAM y hacer boot del TOS que se quiera. Hay muchas herramientas y utilidades, a ver si rasco un hueco y cuento algo...

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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor eldelcairo » 11 Jun 2015 20:06

ron escribió:Además con tanta RAM se puede volcar la ROM que se quiera a RAM y hacer boot del TOS que se quiera. Hay muchas herramientas y utilidades, a ver si rasco un hueco y cuento algo...


También es verdad, tener la 1.04 spanish puesta en rom y en el SatanDisk la 2.06, es buena opción.
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor eldelcairo » 16 Jun 2015 18:54

He comprado un par de éstos para flashear el TOS 1.04 spanish.

http://www.ebay.es/itm/1PCS-IC-AM27C010 ... 4605237963

Que son los que recomiendan adquirir en los tutoriales de esta web.

http://atari4ever.free.fr/hardware/tos.html

Luego copiaremos en la carpeta Auto de la unidad c del SatanDisk el TOS 2.06, cómo exlplican aquí.

http://www.atari-wiki.com/index.php/Ins ... _disk-file

Un saludo.
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor eldelcairo » 18 Sep 2015 15:21

Curiosa modificación para tener en éste caso en un STE, 4 sistemas operativos a la vez en rom, seleccionandolos desde dos interruptores.

http://www.tehkella.net/retro/?p=257

Y más tutoriales de la misma web

http://www.tehkella.net/retro/?cat=4

.
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Re: Potenciar el Atari 1040 STfm, Ram 4Mb, TOS 2.06

Mensajepor ron » 18 Sep 2015 17:42

Pero con 4MB de RAM puedes hacer BOOT de la TOS que quieras desde floppy o por software, que también se puede.


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